The Wild West

Our journey through the South Island had already taken us to the West Coast, but much further North. This time we were approaching from the South. The 150 mile drive along State Highway 6 was spectacular, taking us past Lake Hawea and then Wanaka and over the Haast Pass. The journey took us through an ever changing landscape of high mountains, rain forest, wetlands, lakes, glacier-fed rivers and white water rapids. We stopped for a coffee at Makaroa and then detoured for a walk to the Blue Pools. A track took us over the River Makaroa by way of a swing bridge and through native bush until we arrived at another swing bridge above a gorge opening. Below were bright blue, glacier fed pools of water that were crystal clear. We could see large brown trout in the water and by the river bed people had erected hundreds of tiny cairns. 

The Blue Pools, Makaroa

A few miles further on we stopped again to see a spectacular waterfall and at the Haast Pass we pulled off the road to look at the torrent of white water plunging down rapids in the Haast River. This was to set the pattern for our journey. 

Thunder Creek Falls

The raging white water of the Haast River.

As we drove further west there were fewer and fewer signs of human influence. The rain forest appeared impenetrable and underlined the West Coast's reputation for being an inhospitable environment. This area, along with Fjordland is the wettest part of New Zealand and very few people live here. Although it wasn't raining during our journey dense cloud hung over the forest, mists rose on the mountains above us creating an oppressive atmosphere. Eventually we arrived at Fox Glacier Village and checked into a campsite. The glaciers on the West Coast are very unusual in that they end in temperate rain forest - an environment that can only be seen in parts of South America and New Zealand. I was keen to see Fox Glacier so later that afternoon we made the most of the dry weather and went to see how close we could get to the glacier face. The Department of Conservation closely monitor the glaciers because there are daily ice and rock falls. They are dangerous places and we heeded the warning signs that advised visitors to keep to a marked track. In 2009 two tourists who had strayed from the path were killed by ice fall. A 45 minute walk brought us reasonably close to the glacier face. It was - as most glaciers are - quite grubby! 

The approach to Fox Glacier

Fox Glacier up close. There are guides in the bottom right of the photo to give a sense of scale

The next day heavy rain was forecast but fortunately it started off overcast but dry. We made for Lake Mathieson, famous for its views of Mount Cook and Mount Tasman. The former peak was hidden in cloud but Mount Tasman was just visible although rather strange cloud formations were wrapping themselves around its summit.

We completed a full circuit of Lake Mathieson and our effort was rewarded; although Mount Cook remained hidden from view, we did get the famed reflections of the mountains in the still waters.

Views of Mount Tasman reflected in Lake Mathieson

By the time we reached Franz Joseph to walk to the glacier of the same name the rain had set in. Despite this we walked as far as we could get, got thoroughly soaked but saw the glacier face. 

Mrs B. advising me to go no further...

Two wet walking Bootes...

 Mrs B. suggested we try a trip to the coast as she thought the weather might be better there..and I set off for Gillespie's Beach taking a twisting and turning gravel road for miles and miles until we arrived. It probably wasn't quite what Mrs B. had in mind (golden sand and sunshine)...as we found a windswept, desolate expanse of pebbles. Someone had been creative in the past as we spotted a pebble that had been decorated and left on the beach - which made for a lovely touch.

Gillespies Beach, West Coast, South Island.

Next day the rain had stopped and we continued to head northwards up the west coast. Early morning mist rose like smoke from the swollen rivers and hung above the tops of the forest trees. 

 

Early morning mist rising over the swollen Waiho River

Homes, farms or any sign of human habitation were few and far between until we arrived at a bizarre museum/gift-shop/cafe called 'The Bushmans Centre'. Their signature dish is Possum Pie..and they are currently in dispute with the NZ government as they can't use the possums they hunt and kill themselves to make the pies. Possums are considered a pest in New Zealand, there are 70 million of them so hunting them is actively encouraged...putting them into pies isn't. We settled on a cup of tea and fruit scone...somehow it seemed a safer food choice.

We finally arrived at the small coastal town of Hokitika, the centre of pounami carving. Pounami or greenstone, a form of jade, was and still is much prized by the Maoris and carved or shaped into weapons, ceremonial necklaces and other ornaments. Hokitika was also the setting for the recent Man Booker winning novel 'The Luminaries' set in the gold rush era of the 1860s, and the town retains a fair number of heritage buildings making it possible to imagine what life must have been like 150 years ago. We relaxed here, purchased some pounami necklaces as gifts and walked along a sunny but breezy beach.

Having found a quiet campsite on the edge of town (complete with highland cattle, goats and an alpaca) we watched the sun set into the west on the beach. Once it was fully dark we walked a few hundred meters to see some glowworms in a little dell just across the road from our campsite.

Sunset...

....and glowworms

It was now time to say goodbye to the West Coast for the last time. We were headed back east towards Christchurch and the end of our travels..but still had time to squeeze in a few more adventures before handing back Ned.