Going Underground

Escaping Hobbiton, and not, as far as we know, pursued by any Black Riders our journey took us west. By chance we passed the Hobbiton film set but as the admission charge was $75 each (for a short tour of a film set) we carried on driving through rolling hills and small country towns. Around late morning we arrived at Waitomo...an area of caves and glow worms. There are several companies offering cave tours in the Waitomo area. We opted to go with a company called Spellbound, largely because the reviews on TripAdvisor were very good and they took you to caves used in the filming of Planet Earth. If they were good enough for Sir David Attenborough we thought they would be good enough for us! We booked on a half day tour starting at 2.00 pm so that gave us time to do the Ruakuki bush walk. This spectacular loop track took us through forest, under giant ferns and through natural rock tunnels and to a giant cave opening. This whole area is limestone country and their are 100s of caves, holes (called tomos) and underground rivers.

At 2.00 pm we reported for our cave tour and met our guide, Norm (only his Mum calls him Norman). Norm was a terrific guide, he knew everything about Waitomo (population 41) and had personally explored many of the cave systems in the area. He even knew how many dairy cattle each farm had and shared with us the fact that maize was a popular crop...and also used locally to strengthen marijuana!

Our group was 5 in number and Norm chatted away as he drove us on an unsealed road up into the hills. It was clear he had an intimate understanding of the landscape both above and below ground. After leaving public roads our transit van bumped its way up and down rough tracks arriving in green fields, surrounded by limestone outcrops.

We eventually left our van, walked down a track and put on our helmets and headlamps. Norm guided us into a cave entrance. The light quickly receded. After 20 metres Norm asked us to turn off our headlamps. The darkness was total. After turning them back on again we were guided through a large cave system with an underground river flowing beside us. After a while we started to see pinpricks of light on the roof of the cave and thin filaments of silk like thread.  This was our first sight of glow worms. We could take photos but capturing this wasn't easy with so little light. The photo that follows is a best effort at capturing what we saw. 

Norm explained about the glow worm life cycle (they are actually the larvae of a mosquito like insect) and then led us on deeper into the cave. After walking for a little while we came to an underground river. Norm asked us to get into a small rubber dinghy, extinguish our head lamps,  switch off our cameras and stay silent. 

He proceeded to move us very slowly along the river. The only light was provided by hundreds of thousands of glow worms above our heads.  It was like looking at the densest star field you could imagine. As our eyes adjusted to the light it was possible to make out the shapes of the cave formations and the light from the glow worms created a dappling effect on the water as though light were penetrating a deep forest canopy. Our trip along the river ended near a waterfall before we turned around and in complete silence headed back. Time was hard to judge, but I'm guessing we were on the river for 20 minutes. Norm explained there were 7 kilometres of the cave so we were only seeing a tiny part! After leading us back to the cave entrance Norm made us all a cuppa,  offered biscuits and when we were suitably revived he took us off to another dry cave. This cave didn't have many glow worms but did have wonderful stalagmite and stalactite formations and the bones of a now extinct Moa - a giant bird that once inhabited New Zealand but was hunted to extinction by the Maori.  This unfortunate specimen was around 20,000 years old.

Our time with Norm ended all too quickly and we had experienced something rather special. It seemed appropriate to head to the only bar in town (Waitomo's only pub burnt down a few years ago) and celebrate the end of a magical day. The fact they had a micro brewery and a very acceptable pale ale was even better. Mrs B. even got a free cider on the house!

Getting Into Hot Water....

After breakfast,  shared with the ducks, we left our forest campsite to explore the Coromandel peninsula. This area of New Zealand was gold mining territory in the 1800s and many of the old buildings in Coromandel town had a 'wild west' look about them. It was an overcast and damp morning so we took our time getting there...driving on a coastal road with hair pin bends and then up into the mist laden mountains on even tighter bends. 

Coromandel has a bit of a foodie reputation..and although it was a Sunday morning the Coromandel smokehouse was open. We went in and bought a large herby smoked fillet of Kahawai..a fish caught in New Zealand waters...and some smoked tuna. This made the basis for a really tasty meal later on.

We failed to keep an enterprising cat from getting in the smokehouse...as soon as I opened the door it shot in! 

Before eating our tasty smoked fish we needed to work up an appetite. Cathedral Cove was the destination and reaching it involved a walk....The starting point was Hahei on the east coast of the Coromandel. Cathedral Cove is only accessible by boat or on foot. Taking the latter option our walk dropped down into a valley, undulated through forest and pastureland before finally dropping down to a beautiful beach with pounding surf. A few paces further and the rock arch came into view. It was simply stunning and a great place to have a Sunday lunch. 

The return journey involved a stiff climb back from the beach but we detoured through a poriri grove...part of the forest cloaking the hillsides.  Despite it having been a warm but overcast day we'd enjoyed the walk and the views of dozens of limestone islands just out to sea. 

What was needed after a good walk was a nice hot soak....but that would have to wait until morning. Our campsite for the night was at a place called Hot Water Beach. For about 2 hours either side of low tide its possible to dig a hole in the sand on a specific part of the beach and create your own hot tub. Geo thermal activity brings hot water to the surface. So, armed with a spade,  at 7.30 the next morning,  we set off to start the day in a hot tub of our own making.  It was a beautiful warm sunny morning and I set Mrs B. to work digging. The resulting hot tub was very hot...so much so that it wasn't possible to sit in it for long...without risking parboiling bits of me! Fortunately a large wave came in and reduced any risk of overcooking. 

After an invigorating start to the day we upped sticks and started to make our way south. Our route reached the Karangahake Gorge and we decided to stop and do an impromptu walk. Not really sure where to go and without a map we walked across an old railway bridge crossing a river and entered an old railway tunnel. It was quite gloomy but there was intermittent lighting so we walked on and on...and when we reappeared into the daylight we read an information board that told us the tunnel was just over 1 kilometre long. A real feat of engineering and a physical reminder of the gold mining and cyanide processing factories and industry that had once dominated this now dramatic wilderness area. Crossing another bridge we followed the river downstream watching it run its course over rapids as the water boiled and surged between rocks.

Either a very long tunnel or the Mines of Moria....

 After another picnic lunch we continued to Paeroa...an otherwise ordinary small town apart from its 'fame' (in New Zealand) for its fizzy drink, L&P (Lemon and Paeroa) commemorated by a giant bottle. An obligatory photo was taken.

We reached journey's end for the day - Matamata - another ordinary town that was transformed by the Lord of the Rings films. The Hobbiton film set is just outside the town, which cashes in with a Hobbit hole themed information centre and all manner of Tolkien related ephemera. I spotted a hobbit sushi bar!

Our campsite for the evening was located just outside Matamata. It was called Opal Springs, had the feel of a 1960s holiday park...but had 3 hot spring pools. We ended the day as we had started..in hot water!

In The Land of Giants

After reaching Cape Reinga onward travel options were limited. We could have headed north but this would have entailed hiring a boat of some kind and navigating across the Pacific Ocean! The more pragmatic choice was taken to head south again. About 15 miles south of our overnight campsite at Tapotupotu Bay a sign was spotted saying '90 Mile Beach, 10 km' so we detoured of State Highway 1. Getting to 90 Mile Beach was our first significant experience of driving on New Zealand unsealed roads. After 1 km the tarmac ran out and Ned bumped and rattled along rough gravel until eventually the road stopped...and a giant beach appeared. 90 Mile Beach is in fact only about 50 miles long but looking up and down the beach on a hazy morning there was nothing as far as the eye could see. Sadly our hire agreement prevented us from taking Ned along the beach...but coach trips are routine. Just as we were headed back to our camper a coach roared past..a surreal end to our visit.

90 Mile Beach.....not a lot to see!

Rush hour....

Returning to the gentler tarmac of SH1 our journey continued south...but this time we headed towards the west coast. Our destination was the Waipoua Forest, home of ancient and giant kauri trees. Our route took us through the Hokianga region and across the Hokianga river on a ferry. Whilst waiting to cross on the ferry Ned found himself surrounded by chickens..that appeared out of nowhere...another surreal moment! 

A very winding road led eventually to the lush green sub tropical Waipoua Forest and the star attraction: Tane Mahuta. This ancient kauri tree is the largest alive, stands 51.5 metres tall and is estimated to be around 2000 years old. Walking through dense forest on boardwalk you are suddenly brought up short as this magnificent tree appears, rising through the canopy. Knowing this tree has been around through so much history is a strangely humbling experience. 

Our campsite for the evening was a few miles further south, tucked in a forest clearing. Mrs B. was happy to be able to enjoy a hot shower after the privations of our previous beach side site!

After having breakfast we set off towards the Coromandel peninsula. This involved a long drive passing Auckland but through rolling hills and farmland. As we approached a small community called Paparoa there were signs for a farmers market. On impulse we pulled over and walked through a small selection of stalls. It would have been very easy to buy lots of tasty food stuffs, giant jars of honey, home cured bacon, jams and marmalade but knowing space in Ned wasat a premium we limited ourselves to a punnet of tomatoes and coffee in the village cafe. In the background under a marquee a group of singers strummed some 60s hits...

Continuing our journey brought us through to the coast and blue sea. It seemed as though every turn in the road brought another visual treat...although passing through Auckland wasn't that thrilling! As we approached the Coromandel peninsula mountains appeared on the horizon, shimmering in the late afternoon haze. After stopping in Thames for some food we checked into another forest campsite. This too had hot showers (Mrs B was happy) but also a crystal clear stream, butterflies and friendly (but hungry) ducks. 

We dined on a selection of cheeses, including a very nice Kikorangi blue, washed down with a 2009 Hawkes Bay Malbec, biodynamically grown from the Hawkhurst Estate vineyard.  Very pleasant it was too....and for some reason I slept very well that night.

Dolphins and Departing Spirits

It was a perfect morning for a cruise around the Bay of Islands. The breeze from the previous afternoon had disappeared,  the skies were blue and the sea appeared calm. Boarding quite a large catamaran we set off for a morning cruise...and within half an hour we were enchanted by the pods of dolphins that appeared ahead of us leaping out of the seas in front and to the side. It was a bit of a scrum to see the dolphins at first...but I managed to capture a few photos. 

We headed out to sea and after passing dozens of picturesque islands we arrived at the 'Hole in the Rock'. This is a natural formation about 15 miles out to sea and pretty spectacular! As there was now quite a swell the captain decided not to try and go through...but did reverse park as it were! 

Heading back we were dropped off for 40 minutes on the island of Urupukapuka. Just time to climb the hill and take in 360 degree views of the Bay of Islands. An hour later we got off the catamaran at the small village of Russell...just across the bay from Paihia. Russell was the first British colony in New Zealand..and in the 1800s had a reputation...earning the nickname the Hellhole of the Pacific'. Today its a genteel colonial village with no sign of debauchery. I had to resign myself to a pretty wicked chorizo and mushroom hash for lunch!

The Police House in Russell. Probably not as busy as it used to be....

Arriving back by ferry in Paihia we started to plan the next stage of our travels...which were taking us further North.

Driving North the next day took us through an early morning shower..but the sun was out again as the coast road took us around multiple bends to give views of Doubtless Bay. So named as Captain Cook reputedly remarked 'doubtless it is a bay'...

'Ned' (our camper) was proving up to the challenge of the winding New Zealand roads and proving easier to drive than expected. We found ourselves in a nondescript place called Awarku ready for a mid morning coffee. Now Awarku is not a place to add to anyone's travel itinerary but it does boast one 'attraction': Kauri Kingdom. Essentially a giant metal shed hosting a cafe and tacky gift shop Kauri Kingdom makes items out of Kauri wood recovered from bogs. It's the oldest workable wood in the world - 45000 years old. I was tempted to purchase some over priced coasters but saw they had been made in China! Kaura Kingdom does have a giant tree with an internal staircase...which was pretty impressive.

Mrs B. - inside a tree!

Our route took us slowly north until we eventually arrived at Cape Reinga. This is as far north as you can drive in New Zealand.  Cape Reinga is important to the Maori as a place of immense spiritual importance.  They believe this is where the spirits of those who have passed move on. Walking through to the headland with the deep blue of the Tasman Sea meeting the currents of the Pacific Ocean its easy to understand how these beliefs would arise. The sense of space and light was breathtaking. 

The final stop of the day was a short journey to a stunning Department of Conservation campsite about 3 miles south of Cape  Reinga at a little place called Tapotupotu. No hot showers for Mrs B...just a composting toilet, cold shower and fresh water but the beach was idyllic. 

A view of Ned from the beach.

The perfect way to end the day was with a paddle in the Pacific, a simple meal cooked on our two ring gas burner and to go to sleep listening to the surf crash on the beach. Later that night the stars had come out....or were they departing spirits?

Hello Ned!

At 9.45 am on Monday morning we peered over the side of the 18th floor balcony of our Auckland apartment and spotted a camper van on the street below. We hurried downstairs to meet Eddie from the camper van company who drove us out to a quiet spot, completed the final paperwork and gave us an explanation of how everything worked. He was friendly and helpful but we were keen to be on our way so it wasn't too long before we were headed on our way. Unfortunately a tropical cyclone had blown in so it was quite wet...the first rain we had seen since leaving the UK! It was still warm though and not too windy...though we learnt the next morning a 6.2 earthquake had hit further south. 

Now let me introduce you to our temporary home. We have a high top, long wheelbase Ford Transit with a registration END 448. We pondered what to name our home..and eventually decided to make an anagram out of the first three letters...so our camper is now 'Ned'. It seemed to conjure up an image of a pack pony, slow, steady, used to carrying loads and going up hills and over mountain passes..just like the ponies in Lord of the Rings!

Ned is very easy to drive, seems very economical and is deceptively spacious. We've got a self contained shower, toilet, fridge, microwave,  two gas rings, air conditioning, heating and every bit of equipment we are likely to need...including a corkscrew.

Our first campsite was in forest and riverside setting at Whangerei about 100 miles north of Auckland. We stocked up on food supplies..red wine, gŕound coffee, bananas etc...and when set up, and despite the steady rain, walked for a mile and a half on a bush trail, by the river and through a mangrove swamp arriving at Whangarei town basin. It was pretty enough..but Whangarei town didn't have a lot to offer

The next morning was dry so we headed off further north towards the Bay of Islands. Two stop offs on the way were fun. We detoured to do a short circular walk to see Whangarei waterfall..a 100 ft high curtain waterfall that was quite spectacular. 

In Kawakawa we visited the public toilets - a quite extraordinary building designed by an Austrian artist: Friedrich Hundertwasser, who lived in the town. Decorated in colourful tiles its probably best to let the photos speak for themselves!

A coffee shop across the road also had a Hundertwasser inspired community arts 'maze' that was equally crazy.

The scenery so far had been a mixture of forest, coast and rolling hills...all very easy on the eye but surprisingly devoid of sheep! As we approached Paihia the views became stunning...with panoramic views across the Bay of Islands. An early lunch of cheese salad rolls made by Mrs B earlier in the day - eaten right on the sea front was bliss. We didn't even mind sharing crumbs with some seagulls....though one of them was quite large and intimidating.

We had chosen to stay on a campsite overlooking the Waitangi Treaty Grounds. This is probably the most important historical site in New Zealand. In 1840 a treaty was signed between representatives of the British Crown and Maori chiefs that effectively granted the British control. Its fair to say the Maoris didn't get a fair deal! 

We paid an admission fee that got us a guided tour and cultural demonstration. It was interesting, fun and set in beautiful surroundings. 

What made it more special was the passion of our Maori guide who didn't pull any punches about the continuing injustices felt by her tribe and the inequality that continues to affect Maoris in New Zealand. 

The last highlight of our visit was a look at Ngātokimatawhaorua....a ceremonial war canoe...about 35 metres long. Don't ask me to pronounce the name though!

All the walking had given us an appetite...and 3 minutes walk along the beach was an old sailing ship...that was now a fish and chippie :)

'Skippies'...yes you can really buy fish and chips here!

Another day had ended with a feast of memories. After some much needed chill out time we settled down for an early night...as we had an appointment to keep the following morning...with some dolphins. 

The Sky (Towers) The Limit!

Our journey to New Zealand had a number of unexpected delights and one memorable encounter with an officious member of NZ's border control staff. More of that later....

Our departure from Sydney was poignant, leaving by ferry, travelling beneath the Harbour Bridge under blue skies for a final time, mixed in with the morning commuters and arriving in Circular Quay to catch a train to the airport. Before we knew it we were on board an Air New Zealand flight readying ourselves for another take off. Then came the inevitable pre flight safety video. Now normally such an event would not be worth mentioning for fear of lulling the reader into a state of terminal boredom...but Air New Zealand have created a video that's rather special. A Middle Earth themed video with cameos from Gollum and Peter Jackson had me chuckling away. If you plan to fly Air New Zealand anytime soon then await this treat...but otherwise the link below takes you to it :)

An Unexpected Briefing

Our arrival in Auckland was bang on time but the queues to get through security at the Airport were horrendous. Just when we'd made it through to the final check point and x ray machines we were pulled over and asked to unpack our walking boots. New Zealand has very strict bio security rules and you can't bring fresh food in and have to declare if you've got outdoor equipment that's been used outside NZ in the last 30 days. I ticked all the declarations on the arrival form and had dutifully cleaned our walking boots in Ludlow to remove the Shropshire mud. Fortunately the member of staff only wanted to see my boots - which could be rerieved from a seperate compartment at the base of my rucksack. Mrs B had hers under all her clothes and whatever other mysterious items she carries in her rucksack. He then quizzed me about whether I thought my boots were clean..talked about a fine..and implied I'd not declared them! I suggested politely that a) I had declared them and the card in my hand clearly showed this and b) I had cleaned them! He eventually agreed they were 'marginally clean' and agreed to let me and my boots into the country.

Here's the offending boots...feel free to participate in a 'rate the cleanliness of Boote's boots' game...fun for all the family:

Arriving at our city centre apartment the minor irritations of the airport were soon forgotten. We had been lucky to get a top floor studio with balcony and views to the Sky Tower

Over the next two days we pottered around exploring Auckland city centre. The highlight was our trip up the Sky Tower..the tallest free standing structure in the Southern hemisphere. The views from the viewing platform and separate observation deck were stunning. 

Auckland's harbour is one of the other highlights. A place to wander and admire the hundreds of yachts of all shapes and sizes. 

We stumbled across the fish market and up market deli which offered enticing food choices. A sensible decision was taken not to cart fresh fish around Auckland on a hot sunny day...although on second thoughts we might have had the Sky Tower to ourselves!

Our second day took in the Auckland art gallery which had some interesting contemporary New Zealand art and some wonderful Maori portraits.

A reviving coffee in the gallery restaurant bought admiring comments from the young woman who served us..my 'los pollos hermanos' t shirt (a Christmas gift from Sarah Boote) was the focus of her attention. Anyone who is not a fan of Breaking Bad will be completely baffled by this...the only solution I can recommend is watch the whole series..(available on Netflix) but be warned its addictive and very dark.

We also wandered through the streets admiring the small shops, occasional street art and quirky corners.

It had been good to chill out a bit in Auckland and enjoy the relaxed atmosphere but our time to depart was drawing closer. Another laundry wash, packing of rucksacks and final route planning was required before our camper van arrived. It would soon be time to head North!