Hello Ned!

At 9.45 am on Monday morning we peered over the side of the 18th floor balcony of our Auckland apartment and spotted a camper van on the street below. We hurried downstairs to meet Eddie from the camper van company who drove us out to a quiet spot, completed the final paperwork and gave us an explanation of how everything worked. He was friendly and helpful but we were keen to be on our way so it wasn't too long before we were headed on our way. Unfortunately a tropical cyclone had blown in so it was quite wet...the first rain we had seen since leaving the UK! It was still warm though and not too windy...though we learnt the next morning a 6.2 earthquake had hit further south. 

Now let me introduce you to our temporary home. We have a high top, long wheelbase Ford Transit with a registration END 448. We pondered what to name our home..and eventually decided to make an anagram out of the first three letters...so our camper is now 'Ned'. It seemed to conjure up an image of a pack pony, slow, steady, used to carrying loads and going up hills and over mountain passes..just like the ponies in Lord of the Rings!

Ned is very easy to drive, seems very economical and is deceptively spacious. We've got a self contained shower, toilet, fridge, microwave,  two gas rings, air conditioning, heating and every bit of equipment we are likely to need...including a corkscrew.

Our first campsite was in forest and riverside setting at Whangerei about 100 miles north of Auckland. We stocked up on food supplies..red wine, gŕound coffee, bananas etc...and when set up, and despite the steady rain, walked for a mile and a half on a bush trail, by the river and through a mangrove swamp arriving at Whangarei town basin. It was pretty enough..but Whangarei town didn't have a lot to offer

The next morning was dry so we headed off further north towards the Bay of Islands. Two stop offs on the way were fun. We detoured to do a short circular walk to see Whangarei waterfall..a 100 ft high curtain waterfall that was quite spectacular. 

In Kawakawa we visited the public toilets - a quite extraordinary building designed by an Austrian artist: Friedrich Hundertwasser, who lived in the town. Decorated in colourful tiles its probably best to let the photos speak for themselves!

A coffee shop across the road also had a Hundertwasser inspired community arts 'maze' that was equally crazy.

The scenery so far had been a mixture of forest, coast and rolling hills...all very easy on the eye but surprisingly devoid of sheep! As we approached Paihia the views became stunning...with panoramic views across the Bay of Islands. An early lunch of cheese salad rolls made by Mrs B earlier in the day - eaten right on the sea front was bliss. We didn't even mind sharing crumbs with some seagulls....though one of them was quite large and intimidating.

We had chosen to stay on a campsite overlooking the Waitangi Treaty Grounds. This is probably the most important historical site in New Zealand. In 1840 a treaty was signed between representatives of the British Crown and Maori chiefs that effectively granted the British control. Its fair to say the Maoris didn't get a fair deal! 

We paid an admission fee that got us a guided tour and cultural demonstration. It was interesting, fun and set in beautiful surroundings. 

What made it more special was the passion of our Maori guide who didn't pull any punches about the continuing injustices felt by her tribe and the inequality that continues to affect Maoris in New Zealand. 

The last highlight of our visit was a look at Ngātokimatawhaorua....a ceremonial war canoe...about 35 metres long. Don't ask me to pronounce the name though!

All the walking had given us an appetite...and 3 minutes walk along the beach was an old sailing ship...that was now a fish and chippie :)

'Skippies'...yes you can really buy fish and chips here!

Another day had ended with a feast of memories. After some much needed chill out time we settled down for an early night...as we had an appointment to keep the following morning...with some dolphins.