Dolphins and Departing Spirits

It was a perfect morning for a cruise around the Bay of Islands. The breeze from the previous afternoon had disappeared,  the skies were blue and the sea appeared calm. Boarding quite a large catamaran we set off for a morning cruise...and within half an hour we were enchanted by the pods of dolphins that appeared ahead of us leaping out of the seas in front and to the side. It was a bit of a scrum to see the dolphins at first...but I managed to capture a few photos. 

We headed out to sea and after passing dozens of picturesque islands we arrived at the 'Hole in the Rock'. This is a natural formation about 15 miles out to sea and pretty spectacular! As there was now quite a swell the captain decided not to try and go through...but did reverse park as it were! 

Heading back we were dropped off for 40 minutes on the island of Urupukapuka. Just time to climb the hill and take in 360 degree views of the Bay of Islands. An hour later we got off the catamaran at the small village of Russell...just across the bay from Paihia. Russell was the first British colony in New Zealand..and in the 1800s had a reputation...earning the nickname the Hellhole of the Pacific'. Today its a genteel colonial village with no sign of debauchery. I had to resign myself to a pretty wicked chorizo and mushroom hash for lunch!

The Police House in Russell. Probably not as busy as it used to be....

Arriving back by ferry in Paihia we started to plan the next stage of our travels...which were taking us further North.

Driving North the next day took us through an early morning shower..but the sun was out again as the coast road took us around multiple bends to give views of Doubtless Bay. So named as Captain Cook reputedly remarked 'doubtless it is a bay'...

'Ned' (our camper) was proving up to the challenge of the winding New Zealand roads and proving easier to drive than expected. We found ourselves in a nondescript place called Awarku ready for a mid morning coffee. Now Awarku is not a place to add to anyone's travel itinerary but it does boast one 'attraction': Kauri Kingdom. Essentially a giant metal shed hosting a cafe and tacky gift shop Kauri Kingdom makes items out of Kauri wood recovered from bogs. It's the oldest workable wood in the world - 45000 years old. I was tempted to purchase some over priced coasters but saw they had been made in China! Kaura Kingdom does have a giant tree with an internal staircase...which was pretty impressive.

Mrs B. - inside a tree!

Our route took us slowly north until we eventually arrived at Cape Reinga. This is as far north as you can drive in New Zealand.  Cape Reinga is important to the Maori as a place of immense spiritual importance.  They believe this is where the spirits of those who have passed move on. Walking through to the headland with the deep blue of the Tasman Sea meeting the currents of the Pacific Ocean its easy to understand how these beliefs would arise. The sense of space and light was breathtaking. 

The final stop of the day was a short journey to a stunning Department of Conservation campsite about 3 miles south of Cape  Reinga at a little place called Tapotupotu. No hot showers for Mrs B...just a composting toilet, cold shower and fresh water but the beach was idyllic. 

A view of Ned from the beach.

The perfect way to end the day was with a paddle in the Pacific, a simple meal cooked on our two ring gas burner and to go to sleep listening to the surf crash on the beach. Later that night the stars had come out....or were they departing spirits?