In The Land of Giants

After reaching Cape Reinga onward travel options were limited. We could have headed north but this would have entailed hiring a boat of some kind and navigating across the Pacific Ocean! The more pragmatic choice was taken to head south again. About 15 miles south of our overnight campsite at Tapotupotu Bay a sign was spotted saying '90 Mile Beach, 10 km' so we detoured of State Highway 1. Getting to 90 Mile Beach was our first significant experience of driving on New Zealand unsealed roads. After 1 km the tarmac ran out and Ned bumped and rattled along rough gravel until eventually the road stopped...and a giant beach appeared. 90 Mile Beach is in fact only about 50 miles long but looking up and down the beach on a hazy morning there was nothing as far as the eye could see. Sadly our hire agreement prevented us from taking Ned along the beach...but coach trips are routine. Just as we were headed back to our camper a coach roared past..a surreal end to our visit.

90 Mile Beach.....not a lot to see!

Rush hour....

Returning to the gentler tarmac of SH1 our journey continued south...but this time we headed towards the west coast. Our destination was the Waipoua Forest, home of ancient and giant kauri trees. Our route took us through the Hokianga region and across the Hokianga river on a ferry. Whilst waiting to cross on the ferry Ned found himself surrounded by chickens..that appeared out of nowhere...another surreal moment! 

A very winding road led eventually to the lush green sub tropical Waipoua Forest and the star attraction: Tane Mahuta. This ancient kauri tree is the largest alive, stands 51.5 metres tall and is estimated to be around 2000 years old. Walking through dense forest on boardwalk you are suddenly brought up short as this magnificent tree appears, rising through the canopy. Knowing this tree has been around through so much history is a strangely humbling experience. 

Our campsite for the evening was a few miles further south, tucked in a forest clearing. Mrs B. was happy to be able to enjoy a hot shower after the privations of our previous beach side site!

After having breakfast we set off towards the Coromandel peninsula. This involved a long drive passing Auckland but through rolling hills and farmland. As we approached a small community called Paparoa there were signs for a farmers market. On impulse we pulled over and walked through a small selection of stalls. It would have been very easy to buy lots of tasty food stuffs, giant jars of honey, home cured bacon, jams and marmalade but knowing space in Ned wasat a premium we limited ourselves to a punnet of tomatoes and coffee in the village cafe. In the background under a marquee a group of singers strummed some 60s hits...

Continuing our journey brought us through to the coast and blue sea. It seemed as though every turn in the road brought another visual treat...although passing through Auckland wasn't that thrilling! As we approached the Coromandel peninsula mountains appeared on the horizon, shimmering in the late afternoon haze. After stopping in Thames for some food we checked into another forest campsite. This too had hot showers (Mrs B was happy) but also a crystal clear stream, butterflies and friendly (but hungry) ducks. 

We dined on a selection of cheeses, including a very nice Kikorangi blue, washed down with a 2009 Hawkes Bay Malbec, biodynamically grown from the Hawkhurst Estate vineyard.  Very pleasant it was too....and for some reason I slept very well that night.