By Great Lake Taupo

We returned to sunshine and blue skies after the blustery weather of Hawkes Bay and crossing back across the mountains we had some stunning views. Our destination for the next day or so was Lake Taupo. Formed by a super volcanic explosion around 26,500 years ago Lake Taupo is New Zealand's largest lake. Its 29 miles long, 21 wide and 186 metres at its deepest point. The most recent eruption was around 2000 years ago and was so powerful it turned the skies red in Rome and ancient China. Scientists consider it dormant..not extinct! We felt reasonably safe as we parked Ned in a free campervan site right by the side of the lake..and enjoyed a panoramic view of the blue waters surrounded by hills and with the snow topped peaks of the Tongariro National Park in the distance.


There are lots of water sport related activities to keep you amused on Lake Taupo. We watched sailing dinghies,  water skiers and sail planes take off before heading into Taupo itself for a mid morning coffee.

It was a very hot day so we decided to walk by the river..which was being set up for an outdoor gig in a few days time. Headliners were Lynryd Skynyrd and 10 cc. I remember seeing both (original) bands at Knebworth in 1976!

Walking by the boat marina we saw there were some options for lake cruises and chose to go on the Ernest Kemp..a converted ferry and very jolly looking traditional boat. We could choose times and opted for a 5.00 pm cruise and they offered free beer!

At 5.00pm our skipper Ian welcomed us aboard...there were only about a dozen of us to welcome..and we set off on a beautiful late afternoon to cruise around the lake. Ian provided an amusing commentary peppered with lots of facts about the lake. The highlight was getting close to Maori rock carvings...created in the 1970s.

The cruise had given us an appetite and it was well past Mrs B's dinner time..so fast food was in order. After an enormous and very tasty burger from a NZ burger chain called Fuel we retired to Ned to watch the sun set over the lake. It was a truly spectacular sunset, the colours of the sky changing minute by minute. 

The next morning we set off to explore the Waikato River. Its the only outlet from Lake Taupo and New Zealands longest river.  It is used for hydro electric power and supplies about 15% of New Zealand's electricity. First stop was the Aritiatia Rapids. This was spectacular. 

Several times each day the Aritiatia dam is opened to release torrents of water down a narrow gorge. This spot was used in the second Hobbit movie to film a scene where the dwarves escaped in barrels. Although the water flow is artificially controlled by the water release from the dam upstream it was still impressive. An information board explained no actors (or stunt doubles) had actually been in the barrels during filming. It wasn't difficult to understand why!

Further upstream, and reached by way of a 6 kilometre round trip are the Huka Falls. This was an arduous river side walk with lots of ascents and descents on a very hot day. The walk was however worth it. The Waikoto River meanders gently downstream until it suddenly narrows and falls 20 metres. The narrow channel forces water through at the rate of 220,000 litres per second. The result is a boiling maelstrom of water. It was hypnotic to watch and such a contrast to the lazy, peaceful river we had seen at the start of the walk.

Before....

..... and after

Our stay in Taupo had been brief and we had seen some spectular sights in a short space of time, but it was once again time to move on....the mountains were calling. 

Our next campsite would be in the heart of the Tongariro National Park with the highest mountains in the North Island. A very small village called Whakapapa (pronounced fakapapa) would be our home for the next two nights.....and a good nights sleep was needed - for the following day promised to be very special.