"The breath of my mountain is my heart"

The title of this blog entry is taken from a Maori inscription displayed in stone in Whakapapa village. The great mountains of Tongariro have spiritual significance for the Maori people..but the area is also a World Heritage site, recognised as not just a place of great natural beauty but also one of cultural significance. 

I had wanted to walk in these mountains for a number of years, inspired by our eldest daughter, Helen. A few years ago she visited New Zealand and completed what is considered the finest day walk in the country and one of the top 10 in the world -the Tongariro Alpine Crossing. The following Christmas she presented me with a framed photograph of one part of the walk - a view of the Emerald Lakes. It hung on my office wall and during some challenging times at work would offer a glimpse of a future..one that at times seemed quite distant! 

So here I was...about to fulfil a long held ambition...and walk the Tongariro Crossing myself.

A few facts about the Tongariro Crossing. It is 19.4 kilometres long, one way, involves steep ascents and descents and crosses through a currently active volcanic area. All the guidebooks stress a need to be physically fit, that the going can be tough and to allow between 6-8 hours to complete it, not including stops.

Fortunately I felt pretty fit and Mrs B. agreed some relaxation time would be good... so was happy to wave me off at the start. As it's a one way walk I'd booked a shuttle bus to get to the start point and return me (hopefully) at the end of the walk. I'd also undetaken some strict dietary preparation the evening before with a meal of beans on toast and a glass of red wine!

It was 7.30 am when I started, early morning mist hung in the valleys, there was a slight chill in the air but the promise of a fine day. The first few kilometres involved a gentle climb in the Mangatepopo valley alongside the stream of the same name. Climbing higher brings you close to old lava flows from past eruptions of Mount Ngauruhoe which towers above. It looked ominous cloaked in early morning cloud and its alter ego as Mount Doom in the Lord of the Rings films seemed well deserved. The route is well waymarked and periodically markers tell you how far youve walked. The 1 km marker wasnt overly encouraging!

1 down...18.4 to go....

The top of the first stage reaches an area called Soda Springs..and had taken an hour. I was making good time but made a toilet stop.There are a couple of 'drop pit' toilets..not the cleanest I've used..but I've been to a few festivals...and in any event these are the last ones for about 8 miles. There are no trees to hide behind on the Tongariro Crossing! 

The first significant climb was lung bursting. Steep and unrelenting terrain gave ample time to pause, catch a breath and take in the lava flows of the past 2000 years including some from a major eruption in 1870 and ash deposits from 1975.  It was with some relief when the ground levelled out and a vast crater bowl opened up ahead of me. By this time the sun was beating down...and I was glad I'd got plenty of water.

The view back across the South Crater

The views of Mount Ngauruhoe and the other worldly scenery of the South Crater were reward for the first climb.  A long tramp across the South Crater brought the start of the steepest climb. A 340 metre steep ascent was hard going but I felt a sense of exhilaration at reaching the ridge and the highest point of the walk at 1886 metres (6100 feet) especially as more stunning views of Mount Tongariro, Mount Ngauruhoe and ridges of black volcanic rock with red oxide opened up from this high vantage point. 

The next section of the walk involved a rocky ridge walk (quite narrow in places) and then a steep descent to the Emerald Lakes on very loose volcanic scree. This was the view that had inspired me. You sometimes wonder if an experience you've anticipated is going to live up to your expectations...and I can confidently say that the view of the Emerald Lakes from above, with very visible eruptions of steam behind them, more than exceeded my expectations. 

This view is a show stopper..and I stopped to take plenty of photos. I was about half way so knew that there was plenty more tramping (the NZ term for hiking) to do. I carried on walking across the Red Crater...

The view back across the Red Crater

....arriving at the Blue Lake at about the right time for a picnic lunch. Fuelled by cheese and Vegemite sandwiches (made by Mrs B.) and compelled to get going by a hoard of voracious insects I moved on. It was mostly going to be downhill from here..and the steady descent started to tell on my legs. There was however still plenty to see. The volcanic landscape gave way to to Apline grasses and small flowers. On the shoulder of the mountain a continuous plume of steam acted as a reminder this was still a very active volvanoe zone...and a few warning notices urged caution!

The breath of the mountain.

This part of the mountain last erupted in 2012. Thousands of pieces of rock were ejected and the Ketatahi Hut was hit. This must be at least a mile away. Its been closed to walkers ever since but still offers toilets...there was a bit of a queue for these after 8 miles or so! 

The last stretch after Ketetahi Hut is 6.4 kilometres..but feels longer. The relentless descent took its toll on my calf muscles and for the first time in the day I felt a few twinges. The last couple of kilometres drop through green forest but with evidence of further volcanic activity. A stream bed was damaged by lahar (mud flows) as recently as September 2013. No wonder there are more signs encouraging you not to linger. At long last I turned a corner and reached the end. Although fatigued I felt a real sense of achievement but also a sense of humility that I'd been able to see and feel the breath of the mountain. 

When the shuttle bus dropped me back at the campsite Mrs B. served up a reviving cup of tea. After a hot shower, cold beer and plate of pasta it was time to sleep. I expected aching muscles the next morning and to be emitting a succession of 'old man' noises. To my amazement (and Mrs B's) I felt as fit as a fiddle. The mountains had been kind to me!