Bay Watch

After the wildlife delights of Kaikoura it was time to head back to the Northern shores of the South Island. A long but scenic drive brought us to a peaceful campsite at a place called Cable Bay. About 8 miles north of Nelson we camped near a shingle backed beach that had a salt water tidal lagoon behind. It was peaceful with green hills and cliffs reaching the sea. As we walked along the cliff path we met some other visitors who had watched a sting ray swim into the bay. As we chatted a large shape appeared in the water..too indistinct to be easily identified but headed towards someone snorkeling far below. The theme from Jaws started playing in my head...but thankfully the snorkeler appeared unharmed as the shape disappeared from view!

Cable Bay with the lagoon beyond...

Next morning we stopped for a short while in Nelson before visiting Founders Heritage Park. A bit like a mini version of Blists Hill at Ironbridge...lots of old buildings and reminders of New Zealands recent past.. but with the addition of a working brewery. Despite it being only 11.30am I had to sample a quick half pint...and very good it was too.

One of the heritage buildings at Founders Park, Nelson

Mrs B dragged me away before I took up residence and we found a spot for a picnic at Ruby Bay. Then it was on to Marahau. We'd chosen this small seaside community as it was convenient for booking a taxi that would enable us to walk some of the Abel Tasman coastal path. We went to the taxi booking office which was also the village shop, pub, restaurant and campsite office.  I think its called a monopoly!

Now in the interests of clarity I should explain the taxi we were booking (for the following morning) was of the water variety. Most of the Abel Tasman coastal path is only accessible on foot or by boat...hence our choice of transport.

We'd opted to walk a short stretch (my definition of short and Mrs B's differ somewhat) choosing to go from Torrent Bay to Bark Bay about 7 kilometres in distance.

The next morning we walked to the pick up point and found our water taxi hitched to a tractor. 

Morning taxi....

We were invited aboard and towed 200 meters to the beach and into the sea. Our taxi journeys took 45 minutes and included a detour to see 'Split Apple Rock'..before reaching Torrent Bay. Disembarking involved taking off our walking shoes and socks, jumping over the side and paddling to shore. Mrs B's face was a picture!

Torrent Bay was a lovely golden beach but our path took us up a hill into the bush. From there the route undulated following the coastline offering glimpses of small golden sandy coves. The air was filed with birdsong and we were lucky to briefly see a Tui - one of New Zealand's iconic birds...and also a brand of beer.. (it was the former we saw though as it was hot the latter would have been just as welcome).

Nearing Bark Bay we crossed the Falls River via a 47 meter long swing bridge...and descended to more golden sands and a waiting taxi. A lovely walk was over..all we had to do now was enjoy the return journey...and apply ointment to bites from voracious sand flies! 

After reaching Marahau we continued our travels taking Ned up and over Takaka Hill stopping at a viewpoint that gave views back to the sea and the Richmond range of mountains in the distance. Shortly after we found a cafe/giftshop in the middle of nowhere that sold handmade woolen items. Purchasing an ice cream we went outside to find a collection of rare Gotland sheep, a donkey called Daisy, two emus, some goats and a llama. All were incredibly tame..even the sheep who didn't mind being stroked.

Eventually we reached the Golden Bay area and our campsite in Pohara that backed onto a long beach. The evening sunset was wonderful. 

From here we spent a day exploring. Takaka town was colourful;  full of independent organic food retailers, cafes, art shops and with lots of community art.

Community Art in Takaka

We spent half an hour in the small museum and chatted to a volunteer who had emigrated from England 50 years ago. She gave us a few suggestions on beaches to visit and places to look out for. We travelled out to Farewell Spit a 27 kilometers long sand spit that is a bird sanctuary. Visitors can't visit without a permit so after a short walk along the beach at the start (where we were allowed) with hundreds of black swans just offshore we returned to Ned to travel back to our campsite via a number of small settlements and picked up a bag of a dozen apples at a viewpoint car park, depositing $4 in a honesty box. These apples were so crisp and sweet we munched through them in just a few days! 

We'd had a great time with glorious sunshine in this area, but there were new places to explore so after a couple of nights it was time to move on. There was one final surprise for us. Driving back over Takaka Hill we stopped at the same viewpoint we'd visited on the way through to Golden Bay to take in a vista of early morning cloud below us as far as the eye could see with mountains rising majestically above. 

A sleepy cicada settled on the wooden railing allowing time for a quick photo. These noisy creatures provide a constant barrage of noise in the bush, competing with birdsong but as they are normally high up in the trees its hard to see what's making all the noise!

After a few photos we continued our journey..which was headed towards the west coast...and a diet of pancakes!