Searching For Gold

Arrowtown is a quiet settlement today, picture postcard pretty and a magnet for visitors because of its well preserved colonial era buildings. It was to be our base for a couple of days as we explored Arrowtown itself and the surrounding area. In 1860 Arrowtown looked very different and there probably wasnt too much to see..but the discovery of gold in the Arrow river changed all that. A gold rush started and 4000 hopeful immigrants, from Europe and China flocked to the area in search of a fortune. Today Arrowtown is somewhat gentrified but the buildings reflect its history and it looks more in keeping with the Wild West of the United States rather than New Zealand. We even spotted horses tied to a hitching post outside the pub to complete the illusion.

We wandered around the conserved remains of the Chinese settlement, and learnt much about the history of the goldrush era in the small but interesting museum. The Chinese immigrants were welcomed at first, then subjected to appalling bigotry and prejudice before finally being accepted into the community. Arrowtown also had a small selection of shops including a bakery. Mrs B. was tempted by their apple strudel.

Mrs B. caught in the act...

On our second day we went down to the river (no gold found) and climbed for an hour up the Tobin Track through trees until views opened up across to Lake Wakatipu and the Gibbston Valley. As if to greet our arrival at the top a rainbow appeared - despite no rain - and just added to the scenic views.

As some showers were forecast for later we headed off in Ned to explore the Gibbston Valley, the town of Cromwell and the wineries near Bannockburn. We drove through the Karawau Gorge but didn't stop..saving this for the return journey. By the time we got to Cromwell the heavens had opened and we took refuge in the town centre. Cromwell wasn't very inspiring (but did have giant fruit!)...

About the only interesting thing in new Cromwell!

...but of more interest about a mile away was Cromwell Old Town a collection of heritage buildings that were taken down when the old town was flooded in the 1980s as part of a hydroelectric project. They have now been lovingly conserved, restored and resurrected on a site adjacent to their original location.

One of the conserved buildings of Old Cromwell

After the showers subsided and we'd explored the Old Town we headed off to Bannockburn. The wineries around this small settlement are reputed to now produce some of the world's finest pinot noirs. The landscape is dry and desert like but supports pockets of vineyards which suit the pinot noir grape. It was again noticeable how the geography of New Zealand could change so dramatically within a few miles. I visited the Mount Difficulty cellar door and purchased a bottle of Roaring Meg...for consumption at a later date.

A satisfied customer at the Mount Difficulty vineyard

On our return journey we stopped at various places in the Karawau Gorge. The fast flowing blue waters cut through narrow channels were good to watch from a distance..as were the bungy jumpers leaping off the old Karawau Bridge. I offered to buy Mrs B. a ticket so she could have a go..but she declined my generous offer...can't think why!

The Karawau Gorge

The old Karawau Bridge...for some reason Mrs B. didn't want to jump.... 

The next morning we headed north as our next destination was to be Wanaka which was to prove scenic and puzzling in equal measure.