Geology Rocks!

West coast bound our journey from Golden Bay took us inland through a variety of landscapes. The first part of our journey passed through the fertile but quiet Motueka Valley..one of the main fruit growing areas in the South Island. Passing acre after acre of apple trees we started to appreciate where all those New Zealand apples came from! Eventually the landscape changed to a more barren and mountainous terrain. By lunchtime we had reached Murchison. A small town, centred around a t junction,  Murchison was very sleepy and had the feel of a wild west town. This perhaps reflects its history as a gold mining township. I hadn't realised New Zealand had been the focus of a gold mining boom in the 1860s until reading about it in guide books. Thousands of emigrants flocked to the South Island to seek their fortune. I'd just finished reading (on my Kindle) The Luminaries by Eleanor Catton, which won the 2013 Man Booker prize. Set in the 1860s in a gold rush town probably not too dissimilar to Murchison this excellent novel brings the period to life. Its a long read..but worthwhile!

From Murchison our route took us through the Buller Gorge. There was an option to stop and try out New Zealand's longest swing bridge but Mrs B. declined! The gorge scenery was spectacular though..the road twisting and turning following the Buller River to the ocean at Westport.

Our campsite for the evening was located close to Cape Foulwind. The only place to get food nearby was a pub/takeaway that was absolutely heaving with people at 6.00 pm. We assumed it was a birthday party...but learnt it was in fact a funeral party...it was certainly very jolly! I ordered a takeaway pizza and Mrs B went for lasagne which cost $3.20 (£1.60). The lasagne turned out to be deep fried and the closest thing to inedible Ive ever seen. It was a good job we had supplies in the camper.

Next morning we visited Tauranga Bay to view some more fur seals and caught sight  of the New Zealand weka..a flightless bird.

A rather shy brown weka

Driving south on a murky but warm morning we neverless enjoyed some spectacular coastal scenery as thick forest and limestone gorges tumbled down to sea cliffs and long, sweeping deserted beaches. We stopped to do a short walk, the Truman Track, reckoned to be one of the best short tramps in New Zealand. The path descends through dense bush before reaching a small beach where a waterfall cascades onto the sand. It was a lovely unscheduled diversion.

The end of the Truman Track

Punakaiki isn't the sort of place that would necessarily detain a traveller even though the coastline is pretty scenic. However a remarkable example of limestone rock formations, called Pancake Rocks, where layer upon layer is on display as cliffs meet the sea is more than reason enough to stop and marvel at another example of New Zealand's amazing geology. A well maintained track leads through ferns to the coastline and the unusual rock formations. There are exposed layers of rock, blowholes and crumbling cliff faces to take in. An information board revealed that geologists are still not sure how these rocks were formed...there are competing theories.

 

Pancake stacks!

After having a cold drink at the only cafe in Punaikaiki...we did the walk all over again. A double helping of pancakes you might say!

On the way back to our beachside campsite (via the pub) I explored a small cave and using the torch on my mobile was able to get quite far in.

The cave entrance...

...and the pub entrance

The next morning we were due to change direction and head inland having had our fill of pancakes...