Dolphins and Departing Spirits

It was a perfect morning for a cruise around the Bay of Islands. The breeze from the previous afternoon had disappeared,  the skies were blue and the sea appeared calm. Boarding quite a large catamaran we set off for a morning cruise...and within half an hour we were enchanted by the pods of dolphins that appeared ahead of us leaping out of the seas in front and to the side. It was a bit of a scrum to see the dolphins at first...but I managed to capture a few photos. 

We headed out to sea and after passing dozens of picturesque islands we arrived at the 'Hole in the Rock'. This is a natural formation about 15 miles out to sea and pretty spectacular! As there was now quite a swell the captain decided not to try and go through...but did reverse park as it were! 

Heading back we were dropped off for 40 minutes on the island of Urupukapuka. Just time to climb the hill and take in 360 degree views of the Bay of Islands. An hour later we got off the catamaran at the small village of Russell...just across the bay from Paihia. Russell was the first British colony in New Zealand..and in the 1800s had a reputation...earning the nickname the Hellhole of the Pacific'. Today its a genteel colonial village with no sign of debauchery. I had to resign myself to a pretty wicked chorizo and mushroom hash for lunch!

The Police House in Russell. Probably not as busy as it used to be....

Arriving back by ferry in Paihia we started to plan the next stage of our travels...which were taking us further North.

Driving North the next day took us through an early morning shower..but the sun was out again as the coast road took us around multiple bends to give views of Doubtless Bay. So named as Captain Cook reputedly remarked 'doubtless it is a bay'...

'Ned' (our camper) was proving up to the challenge of the winding New Zealand roads and proving easier to drive than expected. We found ourselves in a nondescript place called Awarku ready for a mid morning coffee. Now Awarku is not a place to add to anyone's travel itinerary but it does boast one 'attraction': Kauri Kingdom. Essentially a giant metal shed hosting a cafe and tacky gift shop Kauri Kingdom makes items out of Kauri wood recovered from bogs. It's the oldest workable wood in the world - 45000 years old. I was tempted to purchase some over priced coasters but saw they had been made in China! Kaura Kingdom does have a giant tree with an internal staircase...which was pretty impressive.

Mrs B. - inside a tree!

Our route took us slowly north until we eventually arrived at Cape Reinga. This is as far north as you can drive in New Zealand.  Cape Reinga is important to the Maori as a place of immense spiritual importance.  They believe this is where the spirits of those who have passed move on. Walking through to the headland with the deep blue of the Tasman Sea meeting the currents of the Pacific Ocean its easy to understand how these beliefs would arise. The sense of space and light was breathtaking. 

The final stop of the day was a short journey to a stunning Department of Conservation campsite about 3 miles south of Cape  Reinga at a little place called Tapotupotu. No hot showers for Mrs B...just a composting toilet, cold shower and fresh water but the beach was idyllic. 

A view of Ned from the beach.

The perfect way to end the day was with a paddle in the Pacific, a simple meal cooked on our two ring gas burner and to go to sleep listening to the surf crash on the beach. Later that night the stars had come out....or were they departing spirits?

Hello Ned!

At 9.45 am on Monday morning we peered over the side of the 18th floor balcony of our Auckland apartment and spotted a camper van on the street below. We hurried downstairs to meet Eddie from the camper van company who drove us out to a quiet spot, completed the final paperwork and gave us an explanation of how everything worked. He was friendly and helpful but we were keen to be on our way so it wasn't too long before we were headed on our way. Unfortunately a tropical cyclone had blown in so it was quite wet...the first rain we had seen since leaving the UK! It was still warm though and not too windy...though we learnt the next morning a 6.2 earthquake had hit further south. 

Now let me introduce you to our temporary home. We have a high top, long wheelbase Ford Transit with a registration END 448. We pondered what to name our home..and eventually decided to make an anagram out of the first three letters...so our camper is now 'Ned'. It seemed to conjure up an image of a pack pony, slow, steady, used to carrying loads and going up hills and over mountain passes..just like the ponies in Lord of the Rings!

Ned is very easy to drive, seems very economical and is deceptively spacious. We've got a self contained shower, toilet, fridge, microwave,  two gas rings, air conditioning, heating and every bit of equipment we are likely to need...including a corkscrew.

Our first campsite was in forest and riverside setting at Whangerei about 100 miles north of Auckland. We stocked up on food supplies..red wine, gŕound coffee, bananas etc...and when set up, and despite the steady rain, walked for a mile and a half on a bush trail, by the river and through a mangrove swamp arriving at Whangarei town basin. It was pretty enough..but Whangarei town didn't have a lot to offer

The next morning was dry so we headed off further north towards the Bay of Islands. Two stop offs on the way were fun. We detoured to do a short circular walk to see Whangarei waterfall..a 100 ft high curtain waterfall that was quite spectacular. 

In Kawakawa we visited the public toilets - a quite extraordinary building designed by an Austrian artist: Friedrich Hundertwasser, who lived in the town. Decorated in colourful tiles its probably best to let the photos speak for themselves!

A coffee shop across the road also had a Hundertwasser inspired community arts 'maze' that was equally crazy.

The scenery so far had been a mixture of forest, coast and rolling hills...all very easy on the eye but surprisingly devoid of sheep! As we approached Paihia the views became stunning...with panoramic views across the Bay of Islands. An early lunch of cheese salad rolls made by Mrs B earlier in the day - eaten right on the sea front was bliss. We didn't even mind sharing crumbs with some seagulls....though one of them was quite large and intimidating.

We had chosen to stay on a campsite overlooking the Waitangi Treaty Grounds. This is probably the most important historical site in New Zealand. In 1840 a treaty was signed between representatives of the British Crown and Maori chiefs that effectively granted the British control. Its fair to say the Maoris didn't get a fair deal! 

We paid an admission fee that got us a guided tour and cultural demonstration. It was interesting, fun and set in beautiful surroundings. 

What made it more special was the passion of our Maori guide who didn't pull any punches about the continuing injustices felt by her tribe and the inequality that continues to affect Maoris in New Zealand. 

The last highlight of our visit was a look at Ngātokimatawhaorua....a ceremonial war canoe...about 35 metres long. Don't ask me to pronounce the name though!

All the walking had given us an appetite...and 3 minutes walk along the beach was an old sailing ship...that was now a fish and chippie :)

'Skippies'...yes you can really buy fish and chips here!

Another day had ended with a feast of memories. After some much needed chill out time we settled down for an early night...as we had an appointment to keep the following morning...with some dolphins. 

The Sky (Towers) The Limit!

Our journey to New Zealand had a number of unexpected delights and one memorable encounter with an officious member of NZ's border control staff. More of that later....

Our departure from Sydney was poignant, leaving by ferry, travelling beneath the Harbour Bridge under blue skies for a final time, mixed in with the morning commuters and arriving in Circular Quay to catch a train to the airport. Before we knew it we were on board an Air New Zealand flight readying ourselves for another take off. Then came the inevitable pre flight safety video. Now normally such an event would not be worth mentioning for fear of lulling the reader into a state of terminal boredom...but Air New Zealand have created a video that's rather special. A Middle Earth themed video with cameos from Gollum and Peter Jackson had me chuckling away. If you plan to fly Air New Zealand anytime soon then await this treat...but otherwise the link below takes you to it :)

An Unexpected Briefing

Our arrival in Auckland was bang on time but the queues to get through security at the Airport were horrendous. Just when we'd made it through to the final check point and x ray machines we were pulled over and asked to unpack our walking boots. New Zealand has very strict bio security rules and you can't bring fresh food in and have to declare if you've got outdoor equipment that's been used outside NZ in the last 30 days. I ticked all the declarations on the arrival form and had dutifully cleaned our walking boots in Ludlow to remove the Shropshire mud. Fortunately the member of staff only wanted to see my boots - which could be rerieved from a seperate compartment at the base of my rucksack. Mrs B had hers under all her clothes and whatever other mysterious items she carries in her rucksack. He then quizzed me about whether I thought my boots were clean..talked about a fine..and implied I'd not declared them! I suggested politely that a) I had declared them and the card in my hand clearly showed this and b) I had cleaned them! He eventually agreed they were 'marginally clean' and agreed to let me and my boots into the country.

Here's the offending boots...feel free to participate in a 'rate the cleanliness of Boote's boots' game...fun for all the family:

Arriving at our city centre apartment the minor irritations of the airport were soon forgotten. We had been lucky to get a top floor studio with balcony and views to the Sky Tower

Over the next two days we pottered around exploring Auckland city centre. The highlight was our trip up the Sky Tower..the tallest free standing structure in the Southern hemisphere. The views from the viewing platform and separate observation deck were stunning. 

Auckland's harbour is one of the other highlights. A place to wander and admire the hundreds of yachts of all shapes and sizes. 

We stumbled across the fish market and up market deli which offered enticing food choices. A sensible decision was taken not to cart fresh fish around Auckland on a hot sunny day...although on second thoughts we might have had the Sky Tower to ourselves!

Our second day took in the Auckland art gallery which had some interesting contemporary New Zealand art and some wonderful Maori portraits.

A reviving coffee in the gallery restaurant bought admiring comments from the young woman who served us..my 'los pollos hermanos' t shirt (a Christmas gift from Sarah Boote) was the focus of her attention. Anyone who is not a fan of Breaking Bad will be completely baffled by this...the only solution I can recommend is watch the whole series..(available on Netflix) but be warned its addictive and very dark.

We also wandered through the streets admiring the small shops, occasional street art and quirky corners.

It had been good to chill out a bit in Auckland and enjoy the relaxed atmosphere but our time to depart was drawing closer. Another laundry wash, packing of rucksacks and final route planning was required before our camper van arrived. It would soon be time to head North!

No Worries!

One thing I've learnt from just a brief stay in Sydney is that Aussies really do say 'no worries' and this epitomises the chilled vibe we've encountered during our stay. After a long flight we made our way to our apartment in Birchgrove..just outside of the centre of Sydney to be met by the owners, Cedric and Caroline who were as friendly and welcoming as anyone could wish for. Cedric even drove us around and dropped us off in the main shopping street so we could grab a coffee and get our bearings. So, overlooking Mort Bay, we found ourself in a peaceful setting for our five days in Sydney. Getting to the centre was achieved by way of a short walk through a park...(called a reserve in Australia) by the side of the bay and then on a Sydney Harbour Ferry under the Harbour Bridge and to Circular Quay...all in 10 minutes. These ferries are like buses for Sydneysiders and an essential form of transport for a city that has spread itself far and wide.

Our 'local' ferry...our apartment is the building in the trees in the background.

Our first full day was spent seeing some of the best known landmarks of Sydney...starting with the Opera House. 

Now whilst the Opera House makes for an impressive spectacle from a distance, to be frank when getting up close its a little shabby. Next to the Opera House are the far from shabby Botanic Gardens. A large green oasis of tropical trees, a haven for the ubiquitous ibis and host to a continuous chorus from cicadas, the gardens are relaxing and offer beautiful views of Sydney Harbour. 

The ibis...a comical looking bird!

Towering over the harbour and the Botanic Gardens is the Central Business District (CBD) which comprises steel and glass skyscrapers which dwarf the few remaining colonial buildings.

Our route however took us to The Rocks..the oldest part of Sydney which had some pleasant looking older buildings and then on to Darling Harbour where we encountered a koala...outside a wild life attraction. Mrs B was happy to have seen a koala up close...although most of the time it had its back to us!

After what seemed like an epic walking tour of Sydney we finished the day on a roof top bar enjoying live music and a cold beer (or two). 

One of the decisions we made on arriving in Sydney was to purchase a multi ticket giving a weeks unlimited use of all buses, ferries and trains. An early start the following morning saw us on a train to Katoomba, heading to the Blue Mountains.  After a short bus trip we purchased tickets for Scenic World..which meant we could ride the world's steepest funicular railway down to the floor of the Jamieson Valley. The walks through the rain forest were wonderful, so many species of trees and we even saw an Eastern Water Dragon.

I persuaded Mrs B. to walk back up to the top of the valley...using a steep cliff side path which includes the Furber Steps..about 900 of them.after about 45 minutes of lung bursting effort we arrived gasping at the top and thankfully saw a kiosk selling chilled water. I couldn't persuade Mrs B. to walk to Echo Point from here ( a mutiny was brewing) so we hopped on a bus and went to take photos of the majestic Three Sisters rock formation.

After another 2 hour return journey on the top deck of a double decker train we arrived tired but happy back in Sydney. 

A resolution to take it a bit easier the next day mindful that a) we'd been cramming a lot into a short space of time and b) it was getting hotter, (30 degrees or more) led to a decision to take a ferry to Manly. After a lovely half hour crossing of Sydney Harbour we arrived to find a typical sea side resort. Ignoring the surfing shops,  a unexpectedly high number of pharmacists and the tacky souvenirs...although Mrs B. was sidetracked a bit, we arrived at the main beach. It was stereotypically Aussie - volley ball nets, surfers and life guards. We settled in the shade to chill and read before having a picnic.

In the afternoon we started a stretch of the Manly Scenic Walkway which gave some stunning views of the coast...

but it was hot and sticky so we only walked a couple of miles before diverting for some cold drinks and a return ferry.

Our last day was spent mooching around Sydney and coffee courtesty of Pie Face. (this is not I hasten to add a new affectionate name for Mrs B...its a chain of Australian coffee shops) before we arrived more by luck than judgement at the Sydney Festival Village..which had an inflatable bouncy stone circle. Sadly only children were allowed on.

Deciding we should seek some shade, another walk through a different part of the Botanic Gardens took us to the entrance to the Art Gallery of New South Wales. This was an unexpected treat. There was marvellous aboriginal art, works by European artists as diverse as Rubens, Picasso and Tracy Emin and all presented in spacious galleries.

Aboriginal art and a piece by Tracy Emin at Art Gallery NSW

This concluded a whistle stop tour of Sydney and the surrounding area. We had a flight to catch the following morning so needed time for packing our rucksacks in preparation for our next  destination: New Zealand. Hong Kong and Sydney had been short stop overs en route to NZ, but both cities had left us wishing we had a bit more time in each. We may have to return! For now though Middle Earth was beckoning and the next posting will report on hobbit sightings,  wizards and any rings we might find lying about.

Hong Kong (Part 2)

Seeking respite from the hustle and bustle of Hong Kong and Kowloon for a day it was decided to head off to Lantau Island, which is 20 miles or so from Hong Kong island. Getting to Tung Chung was a doddle using the MTR..which puts the UK transport system to shame. From there our journey continued on the Ngong Ping cable car...which takes you 5.7 kilometres over the sea and forest before depositing you in Ngong Ping village. For our return journey we opted for the cable car with a clear glass floor...which was fun!

Ngong Ping village wasn't very interesting...just a series of tourist shops..but the village isn't why people visit. Lantau Island has the Tian Tin Buddha...also known as the Big Buddha, a magnificent bronze Buddha standing 34 metres tall at the top of 200 steps. Its the largest seated Buddha in the world and draws both tourists and devotees alike. Somehow despite the throngs of people it felt a peaceful place to stop, reflect or simply admire the natural beauty of the forest all around and the rooftops of the Po Lin monastery, our next destination. 

Po Lin is a large monastery and was undergoing some construction work but we were able to quietly observe devotees burning incense and admire the beauty of the temple decoration.

Perhaps the unexpected highlight of our trip to Lantau Island was a walk through the forest to the Wisdom Path. A series of wooden half columns have been erected on a hillside each inscribed with verses from the Buddhist Heart Sutra...in Chinese calligraphy. A walk back through the forest encountering Chinese hikers who greeted us with smiles made for a memorable day.

Our final morning in Hong Kong promised sunshine and so we set off early to see The Peak by way of a 'ding ding' tram...so called because of the noise they make and then the famous Peak Tram. Arriving early we beat the crowds and had panoramic vistas from the Sky Terrace. 

A final few hours were spent on and off the mid level escalators. Now this is a bit more interesting than it sounds! Because Hong Kong is built on steep hills these escalators (the longest covered ones in the world) transport residents and weary travellers 800 metres up hill..crossing different districts where its possible to hop off and detour to explore local markets. These markets and the shops were lively, colourful and chaotic.

And so ended our short stay in Hong Kong. It was clear we had only scratched the surface of this vibrant world city which crackles and buzzes with energy and electricity. 

It was time to head for the airport and our next destination: Sydney..but with the knowledge Hong Kong had given us a fabulous start to our travels.

Hong Kong (Part 1)

Arriving in Hong Kong after a long flight inevitably brings about feelings of disorientation. I'm not sure that anything would adequately prepare a first time visitor for the noise, hustle and bustle we experienced after wandering around the Sheung Wan district of Hong Kong...which is famous for its dried sea food...a Chinese gourmet delicacy. If shop after shop of bewildering and curious dried sea foods wasn't enough to throw a weary traveller into a state of confusion imagine turning a corner and being confronted by a pink Rolls Royce complete with personalised number plate...

A real life 'Barbie' car!

The next morning and ready for anything that Hong Kong could show us we took the famous Star Ferry across Victoria Harbour and after an hour or two of meandering around a flower market which was full of stunningly beautiful displays. Less attractive was a bird market...with cage after cage of birds ranging from tiny finches to parrots. Ladies Market sells copies of branded goods and was predictably busy but there were no real bargains. A visit to Tin Hau temple provided some peace and respite. The aromas of sandalwood, colourful alters and atmosphere of peace revealed some of the contrasts Hong Kong has to offer. At night the pace in Hong Kong seems to intensify. The skyscrapers are lit up and neon signs draw you into the markets - including Temple Street. If you ever needed a mobile phone cover this is the place to come!

There are many high end fine dining places in Hong Kong but one of the aspects of Asia I really like is the tasty street food, cafes and eateries in shopping malls. Dining out is a communal experience with shared tables, unfamiliar food choices, chop sticks and its all incredibly cheap by UK standards. Lunch comprising a sandwich (for Mrs B)  chicken soup, beef noodles (for me) and drinks cost the equivalent of £2.80. I did promise myself a trip to Tim Ho Wan..famous for being the cheapest Michelin starred restaurant in the world. We ordered a veritable feast of dim sum, wonton and his famous bbq filled pork buns which didn't disappoint. Sadly Mrs B wasn't enamoured with all this 'strange' food...and having to eat every meal with chop sticks...describing the pork buns which have earned rave reviews from food critics as "that bloody pork rubbish". Oh well...as least the bill didn't break the bank..£6.50 per head for Michelin starred dining isnt too shabby!

For our next experience we decided to travel 20 miles to Lantau Island..to see the Big Buddha. I'll describe our cable car ride and more of our time in Hong Kong in Part 2.