The Deep South

Having reached Cape Reinga, the northerly tip of the North Island we set off early in the morning to find the most southerly point of the South Island. Cape Reinga celebrates its position on the map with a light house and a multi-place signpost pointing to major world cities. The most southerly tip of the South Island by contrast is a relatively low key affair. Slope Point is reached by way of a 6 mile gravel road and then a mile walk over fields in rolling but not dramatic coastal scenery. Reaching a small grassy headland a simple signpost announces you've reached the most southerly tip of the island and informs you that in one direction its 5140 kilometers to the equator and 4803 kilometers to the South Pole.

The usual debate about which way to go next....

Our next destination as we travelled through fairly mundane but pleasant countryside was the small port of Bluff. There isn't much at Bluff if truth be told, its a working port, so typical shabby steel or aluminium warehouses line the approach. At the edge of town is however a very pretty headland with a more impressive signpost to rival that found at Cape Reinga. There were also lots of walking tracks so as the sun was shining we set off following a trail along the coast and then up into bush onto a track called the Glory Road. On the way back down there were scattered World War 2 gun batteries that formed part of New Zealands coastal defences against a possible Japanese invasion.

The more impressive signpost at Bluff

Tui spotted on Bluff Headland

We'd opted to stop overnight in New Zealands most southerly city of Invercargill. It doesn't have much to detain the visitor but a couple of things were noteworthy. It was home to a motorcycling ace called Burt Munro who set a number of world speed records in the 1960s. Burt Munro was a pretty remarkable man. He set his speed records on a 1920s Indian Scout motorcycle that had a top speed of 50mph. He modified it over the years until at the age of 68 he broke the world speed record..reaching a speed of 190 mph on a bike that was 47 years old. This record still stands today. Burt died in 1978 but his beloved Indian Scout motorbike is on display in a hardware store (EL Hayes) in Invercargill. We wandered around the store which doubles up as a motor museum! 

The campsite lent us a DVD of the biopic made of Burt Munros life..called 'The Worlds Fastest Indian'..starring Anthony Hopkins. Its a feel good type of film, recommended for family viewing and provided a pleasant and cheap night in for Mrs B. and myself as Ned has all mod cons including a DVD player!

The next morning, before leaving Invercargill,  we headed to the Southland Museum which has a small exhibition on Burt Munro as well as one of the replica Indian Scout motorcycles used in the filming...and opportunity to climb in it...so I did!

The museum also has a large collection of 'living dinosaurs'. Called tuatara these reptiles are unique to New Zealand. Dating back at least 200 million years they followed a different evolutionary path to lizards and snakes. They have no ears, but are able to hear sound and have 'third eye' invisible in adults but detectable in young. There were lots of tuatara at Southland Museum and we spent some time watching them do very little. The star tuatara is Henry who is at least 115 years old. 

Henry..the dinosaur

The deep south of New Zealand had thrown up some eclectic surprises but once again it was time to move on. We were headed to one of the most unspoilt areas of the country: Fjordland. 

Penguins on Parade

After the glorious mountain scenery of Mount Cook our travels took us to the east coast...a far less rugged landscape. Our base for a couple of days was the old port of Oamaru. A small Victorian town Oamaru has a number of eclectic attractions. Firstly it boasts a beautiful harbour area where old warehouses have been conserved and are now used as artists studios and galleries, for a bakery, an old bookseller and gift shops.

 At odds with the genteel charm of the harbour area but housed in an old warehouse is Steampunk HQ. I confess to having had limited knowledge about Steampunk. Its a science fiction genre that reimagines future worlds but rooted in Victorian era machines. At Oamaru this vision has been translated into a strange gallery in which old pieces of machinery, video and artwork is merged together in darkened atmospheric rooms. Its all very HG Wells meets Dr Who and completely baffling but also inventive.

The strange world of Steampunk HQ

Our main reason for visiting Oamaru was for some penguin spotting. On our first evening we drove to a viewing platform, high above a beach, to watch some yellow eyed penguins return to their burrows. Although a long way from 'the action' our patience was rewarded by seeing two penguins return from a day feeding at sea. The following evening we bought tickets to enter a conservation centre that enables visitors to see blue penguins returning to their nest. The Blue Penguin is the smallest in the world, only 30cm tall, and we got to see around 30 birds returning to their burrows, quacking greetings as they arrived on shore and waddling comically up the beach, over rocks and from only a few meters away. Blue penguins are easily disturbed so no filming of  any kind is permitted. It was a memorable evening. Mrs B's new favourite game was penguin spotting!

After two nights of penguin spotting we headed South to Dunedin. Founded by Scottish settlers Dunedin proclaims itself as the Edinburgh of the South. It certainly delivered weather more akin to Scotland as we had two days of squally showers. Dunedin's railway station must be the most photographed building in New Zealand. An over the top architectural statement it proclaims Dunedin's place in the world.

I confess I didn't find Dunedin to be a particularly attractive city overall but it had a few redeeming qualities in the form of two excellent museums and spacious botanical gardens. Our campsite was on the edge of the city so there were some walks available through the bush. I ventured out after dark on one of these trails to see some more glow worms. Our second day involved driving out to the Otago peninsula. A wild and rocky coastline with beaches well off the beaten track, this peninsula is home to the only mainland breeding colony of the Royal Albatross. We arrived too early for the centre to open but nevertheless managed to spot several of these giant birds soaring over the headland. A return journey took us on unsealed roads where we saw lots more bird life including a pair of kingfishers.  

Our departure from Dunedin and gradual movement south heralded an improvement in the weather. We stayed for one night close to the Moeraki boulders. These almost perfectly round giant balls of rock (limestone) are on a beach just outside a small seaside village of Moeraki. 

The Moeraki Boulders

Our campsite host also told us where we might see some more yellow eyed penguins. Following his directions along a gravel road for a few miles we found a pretty headland. We had hoped to get slightly better views of yellow eyed penguins so set off down a grassy track keeping our eyes peeled for penguins. Nothing could have prepared us for what followed. There were yellow eyed penguins in grassy hollows and on cliff tops only 2-3 meters away. We had to be careful not to walk on them! In addition fur seals were snoozing on rocks and on the grass. Tiptoeing around we spent ages watching penguins groom themselves, socialise or just prepare for sleep.

The next leg of our journey took us through the Caitlins. With gentle hills, wide beaches and dramatic cliffs this area offers the visitor plenty to enjoy. Its off the beaten track too, is sparsely populated and conveys a sense of real remoteness. We drove along quiet roads and as signs for waterfall walks kept popping up we followed yet another gravel road to the start of a waymarked track to the Purakaunai Falls. After walking through dense bush we came to the base to find a picture postcard waterfall. Water cascaded down a series of tiers to tremendous visual effect. These falls apparently featured on a New Zealand postage stamp in the 1970s and have an iconic status. 

The Purakaunai Falls

We carried on for 10 miles and went to see the taller Matai Falls before concluding we'd seen enough for one day! Our campsite was at an 'end of the road' place called Curio Bay. The campsite was sandwiched between the wild sweeping sands of Cooks Bay (home to a pod of 50 Hectors dolphins) and Curio Bay itself,  home but another yellow eyed penguin colony and a petrified forest. The setting was superb and each camper had its own screen of flax to block out the wind but the facilities were primitive. Showers were set in circular concrete bunker like constructions as was a tiny kitchen which could accommodate about 5 people at a squeeze. Fortunately we had Ned so were self sufficient. 

The Curious Curio Bay Kitchen!

We wandered down to Curio Bay early evening to see if we could spot any more penguins. A Department of Conservation volunteer warden was on hand and we learnt that there were 9 breeding pairs. Patience was rewarded when two 4 month old chicks came out of their burrows to greet a parent who was returning from a day feeding at sea. The adult hopped and waddled up the rocks with two noisy chicks demanding food. Surprisingly they moved closer to us...only 3-4 meters away and we watched the adult regurgitate food into the mouths of the chicks. 

One chick was dominant and got the lions share of the food. Everyone spontaneously cheered when the smaller one managed to get some food! 

We also learnt that, following the arrival of orcas in Cooks Bay a couple of days previously, the dolphins had (wisely) made themselves scarce for a while. The next day, when the tide was out, we did an early morning coastal walk and we got to see some of the petrified forest for which Curio Bay is best known. Its possible to see tree trunks lying horizontally that are 180 million years old. This preserved fossil forest is a rare record of plant life that existed before New Zealand broke away from a continental mass called Gondwanaland. Another astonishing glimpse of a long distant past.

We also spotted a couple of penguins so I needed to drag Mrs B. away...Southland and the furthest point south of mainland New Zealand were waiting for us. 

Cloud Piercer

At 3754 meters Mount Cook is the highest peak in New Zealand and it sits in a magnificent National Park with many other mountains over 3000 meters tall. Its a land of rock, ice and permanent snow. Our journey took us down State Highway 1 towards Mount Cook passing through a landscape of hills and valleys. The weather had stayed fine so we were blessed with bright clear blue skies and the forecast was for the weather to stay sunny and hot for a few more days.

Our first stop was in the pretty town of Geraldine where we had a coffee, bought some sausages from the local butcher and cheeses from a local chess maker. We also went into a knitting shop...not my normal choice of destination..but this one was home to two oddities: the world's largest jersey...and an expanded replica of the Bayeaux Tapestry...made from over 3 million tiny metal pieces from knitting machines. The creator of these fascinating artifacts spent some time telling us all about them. I concluded he was almost certainly mad but completely harmless!

Glaciation is the predominant feature that has shaped the land in and around Mount Cook. It continues to do so today. Our first campsite in the area involved a spot of true freedom camping..right by the side of Lake Pukaki.

Formed by a glacier 17,000 years ago Lake Pukaki is almost 10 miles long and 5 miles wide but its most striking feature is the brilliant blue colour of the glacial waters. Rock sediment is suspended in the water to produce this effect.

Another couple of campers had the same idea as us and invited to join them at around 5.00 pm for drinks. They were two retired couples. Noel and Daphne and Pat and John who were next door neighbours in the small town of Geraldine - about 90 miles away. They were very friendly, interested in our home country and John even produced 2 home grown tomatoes for us to try. It was a fine example of the warmth and kindness of strangers that is one of the joys of travelling. 

Lake Pukaki gave the first proper sight of Mount Cook or to give it its Maori name, Aeoraki, which translates as 'cloud piercer'.

First views of Mount Cook over Lake Pukaki

We set off to travel the 60 or so kilometers to get closer. The Department of Conservation operative lots of basic camping grounds, charging £5.00 per head per night. The White Horse Hill camp ground must be one of their most scenic. A couple of kilometers from Mount Cook village, surrounded by mountains and with the snow and ice clad Mount Sefton towering above views in 360° are simply wonderful. 

White Horse Hill Campsite

Lots of walking tracks lead off into the mountains and these range from the extremely gentle to mega serious climbs. For our first afternoon we chose the Hooker Valley track. A 12 kilometer round trip, up through alpine scenery, crossing three swing bridges this walk rewards with a close up view of Mount Cook, the Hooker glacier and glacier lake. Even in summer this lake had icebergs floating in it..as the glacier had melted and chunks had broken off.

The following morning we drove a short distance to see Mount Cook from another angle, climbing to see the Tasman glacier and its lake as well as some smaller glacier lakes.

After lunch we walked another few miles to Kea Point which brought us close to the towering ice walls of Mount Sefton. In between times we squeezed in a trip to the Hermitage Hotel..we sat through a 20 minute 3D film..but the sound wasnt synchronised properly so I asked for and received a full refund! This paid for coffee at the Old Mountaineers cafe..a result! In both venues there are photographs of the early mountaineers including Sir Edmund Hillary. He trained on Mount Cook before his sucessful first ascent of Everest in 1953. A true giant of a man not just for his mountaineering exploits or Antarctic expedition but for a life devoted to helping set up schools and education opportunities in Nepal.

The scenery of Mount Cook is stunning in the day time but the areas 'dark skies' status also means that when it gets dark the night time view of the stars above are almost as impressive. The campsite is located at around 950 meters above sea level so it gets chilly at night...but it was worth putting on a fleece to spend some time gazing at the constellations. I had a go at some photography to try and capture the view.

It was with some regret the following morning we upped sticks and continued on our journey. Mount Cook will live in the memory for a long time...

I, Kea!

The geography of the South Island makes it near impossible to travel west to east (or the reverse) without crossing mountain ranges. In order to reach the east coast we had to tackle one of the passes that makes it possible to journey through the mountains..and so on an overcast morning, after a quick pit stop in the suitably named town of Greymouth, we headed towards Arthurs Pass. At 920 metres this high road crosses a precipitous mountain range after first following wide glacial river valleys. Despite not being able to see the tops of the mountains we could appreciate their grandeur. After crossing the Otira viaduct we stopped at a viewpoint called Death Corner...apparently there was one fatality at this point on the old road before the viaduct opened. 

After taking a few photos I spotted my first kea. The kea is the world's only alpine parrot and only found in the Southern Alps of New Zealand. They are green in colour and known to be both curious and highly intelligent. This one was perched on a rock but moments later another appeared and attacked a plastic bag!

We were to get closer views of a kea about an hour later..but before that we stopped just below the summit of Arthurs Pass to do a walk. A stiff climb opened up views of mountains cloaked in dense cloud but away to the east a hint of better weather also offered glimpses of snow still lying on the high summits.

The climb had made us thirsty so a mile or two down the road we stopped at Arthurs Pass village and made for the cafe/general store. As we walked up to the wooden veranda a couple of keas appeared and  were hopping around under the outdoor chairs and tables. 

Signs warned customers not to feed the kea. I ordered a milkshake for myself and a pot of tea for Mrs B. and, as it was warm, we deciďed to sit outside. Just after Mrs B.had poured some milk into her cup a kea hopped up onto our table. For a few seconds Mrs B. thought this was lovely...imagine having a wild parrot only 2 feet away from you. That was until it hopped forward and started drinking the milk she has just poured into her cup! Mrs B shrieked and this was effective...as the kea then moved on to the milk jug. I couldn't do much to help because a) I was holding onto my milkshake and b) laughing too much. Fortunately a waitress came and shooed it away and gave us an anti-kea gun...ie a plastic bottle full of water to squirt with! She asked us to return it because if left unattended the keas would puncture the bottles to render them useless. She also told us they could easily remove bootlaces from walking boots. Needless to say Mrs B. doesn't think keas are quite so cute..I think they are amazing birds.

Kea...waiting to pounce!

After sharing refreshments with a Kea we continued eastwards and this side of Arthurs Pass was bathed in sunshine. The views were amazing and we stopped several times to take in the surroundings.

We planned to freedom camp at a lake for the night so mid afternoon pulled into a nature reserve by the side of Lake Pearson. This was an idyllic spot and the lake was home to a very rare bird..the Southern Crested Grebe. There are estimated to be only 250 breeding pairs in existence..and one came out of the reeds and went past.

Southern Crested Grebe

In addition there were lots of friendly and inquisitive ducks..happy to get right up close to the camper, lie down and sleep close to us and I hand fed one using some bread we had to spare. From that point on the ducks followed me..even getting out of the water to waddle up to the van behind me when I'd wandered the down to the lake shore. 

Duck sitting at Lake Pearson

The next morning was gloriously crisp with bright sunshine. We had planned to drive through to Mount Somers but an interesting limestone rock formation caught our eye and we stopped for an impromptu walk. These rocks were called Kura Tawhiti and time and weather had eroded the limestone into strange and rather beautiful shapes, set on a ridge overlooking farmland and, beyond, high mountains. 

Mrs B. in marching mode

Morning coffee was taken in the small town of Springfield (no sign of Bart Simpson) and after another hour of driving we stopped for another walk, this time to take in the stunning blue waters in the Rakaia Gorge, climbing high above to get views of the bridge and river beyond.

Eventually we reached Mount Somers to find we had sole occupancy of the campsite! Mount Somers itself was a small village with a very old fashioned store that sold everything under the sun.

Mount Somers general store...

It was a peaceful place to stay for a night, relax and reflect on an unexpectedly interesting, varied and scenic crossing from west to east.

Geology Rocks!

West coast bound our journey from Golden Bay took us inland through a variety of landscapes. The first part of our journey passed through the fertile but quiet Motueka Valley..one of the main fruit growing areas in the South Island. Passing acre after acre of apple trees we started to appreciate where all those New Zealand apples came from! Eventually the landscape changed to a more barren and mountainous terrain. By lunchtime we had reached Murchison. A small town, centred around a t junction,  Murchison was very sleepy and had the feel of a wild west town. This perhaps reflects its history as a gold mining township. I hadn't realised New Zealand had been the focus of a gold mining boom in the 1860s until reading about it in guide books. Thousands of emigrants flocked to the South Island to seek their fortune. I'd just finished reading (on my Kindle) The Luminaries by Eleanor Catton, which won the 2013 Man Booker prize. Set in the 1860s in a gold rush town probably not too dissimilar to Murchison this excellent novel brings the period to life. Its a long read..but worthwhile!

From Murchison our route took us through the Buller Gorge. There was an option to stop and try out New Zealand's longest swing bridge but Mrs B. declined! The gorge scenery was spectacular though..the road twisting and turning following the Buller River to the ocean at Westport.

Our campsite for the evening was located close to Cape Foulwind. The only place to get food nearby was a pub/takeaway that was absolutely heaving with people at 6.00 pm. We assumed it was a birthday party...but learnt it was in fact a funeral party...it was certainly very jolly! I ordered a takeaway pizza and Mrs B went for lasagne which cost $3.20 (£1.60). The lasagne turned out to be deep fried and the closest thing to inedible Ive ever seen. It was a good job we had supplies in the camper.

Next morning we visited Tauranga Bay to view some more fur seals and caught sight  of the New Zealand weka..a flightless bird.

A rather shy brown weka

Driving south on a murky but warm morning we neverless enjoyed some spectacular coastal scenery as thick forest and limestone gorges tumbled down to sea cliffs and long, sweeping deserted beaches. We stopped to do a short walk, the Truman Track, reckoned to be one of the best short tramps in New Zealand. The path descends through dense bush before reaching a small beach where a waterfall cascades onto the sand. It was a lovely unscheduled diversion.

The end of the Truman Track

Punakaiki isn't the sort of place that would necessarily detain a traveller even though the coastline is pretty scenic. However a remarkable example of limestone rock formations, called Pancake Rocks, where layer upon layer is on display as cliffs meet the sea is more than reason enough to stop and marvel at another example of New Zealand's amazing geology. A well maintained track leads through ferns to the coastline and the unusual rock formations. There are exposed layers of rock, blowholes and crumbling cliff faces to take in. An information board revealed that geologists are still not sure how these rocks were formed...there are competing theories.

 

Pancake stacks!

After having a cold drink at the only cafe in Punaikaiki...we did the walk all over again. A double helping of pancakes you might say!

On the way back to our beachside campsite (via the pub) I explored a small cave and using the torch on my mobile was able to get quite far in.

The cave entrance...

...and the pub entrance

The next morning we were due to change direction and head inland having had our fill of pancakes...

Bay Watch

After the wildlife delights of Kaikoura it was time to head back to the Northern shores of the South Island. A long but scenic drive brought us to a peaceful campsite at a place called Cable Bay. About 8 miles north of Nelson we camped near a shingle backed beach that had a salt water tidal lagoon behind. It was peaceful with green hills and cliffs reaching the sea. As we walked along the cliff path we met some other visitors who had watched a sting ray swim into the bay. As we chatted a large shape appeared in the water..too indistinct to be easily identified but headed towards someone snorkeling far below. The theme from Jaws started playing in my head...but thankfully the snorkeler appeared unharmed as the shape disappeared from view!

Cable Bay with the lagoon beyond...

Next morning we stopped for a short while in Nelson before visiting Founders Heritage Park. A bit like a mini version of Blists Hill at Ironbridge...lots of old buildings and reminders of New Zealands recent past.. but with the addition of a working brewery. Despite it being only 11.30am I had to sample a quick half pint...and very good it was too.

One of the heritage buildings at Founders Park, Nelson

Mrs B dragged me away before I took up residence and we found a spot for a picnic at Ruby Bay. Then it was on to Marahau. We'd chosen this small seaside community as it was convenient for booking a taxi that would enable us to walk some of the Abel Tasman coastal path. We went to the taxi booking office which was also the village shop, pub, restaurant and campsite office.  I think its called a monopoly!

Now in the interests of clarity I should explain the taxi we were booking (for the following morning) was of the water variety. Most of the Abel Tasman coastal path is only accessible on foot or by boat...hence our choice of transport.

We'd opted to walk a short stretch (my definition of short and Mrs B's differ somewhat) choosing to go from Torrent Bay to Bark Bay about 7 kilometres in distance.

The next morning we walked to the pick up point and found our water taxi hitched to a tractor. 

Morning taxi....

We were invited aboard and towed 200 meters to the beach and into the sea. Our taxi journeys took 45 minutes and included a detour to see 'Split Apple Rock'..before reaching Torrent Bay. Disembarking involved taking off our walking shoes and socks, jumping over the side and paddling to shore. Mrs B's face was a picture!

Torrent Bay was a lovely golden beach but our path took us up a hill into the bush. From there the route undulated following the coastline offering glimpses of small golden sandy coves. The air was filed with birdsong and we were lucky to briefly see a Tui - one of New Zealand's iconic birds...and also a brand of beer.. (it was the former we saw though as it was hot the latter would have been just as welcome).

Nearing Bark Bay we crossed the Falls River via a 47 meter long swing bridge...and descended to more golden sands and a waiting taxi. A lovely walk was over..all we had to do now was enjoy the return journey...and apply ointment to bites from voracious sand flies! 

After reaching Marahau we continued our travels taking Ned up and over Takaka Hill stopping at a viewpoint that gave views back to the sea and the Richmond range of mountains in the distance. Shortly after we found a cafe/giftshop in the middle of nowhere that sold handmade woolen items. Purchasing an ice cream we went outside to find a collection of rare Gotland sheep, a donkey called Daisy, two emus, some goats and a llama. All were incredibly tame..even the sheep who didn't mind being stroked.

Eventually we reached the Golden Bay area and our campsite in Pohara that backed onto a long beach. The evening sunset was wonderful. 

From here we spent a day exploring. Takaka town was colourful;  full of independent organic food retailers, cafes, art shops and with lots of community art.

Community Art in Takaka

We spent half an hour in the small museum and chatted to a volunteer who had emigrated from England 50 years ago. She gave us a few suggestions on beaches to visit and places to look out for. We travelled out to Farewell Spit a 27 kilometers long sand spit that is a bird sanctuary. Visitors can't visit without a permit so after a short walk along the beach at the start (where we were allowed) with hundreds of black swans just offshore we returned to Ned to travel back to our campsite via a number of small settlements and picked up a bag of a dozen apples at a viewpoint car park, depositing $4 in a honesty box. These apples were so crisp and sweet we munched through them in just a few days! 

We'd had a great time with glorious sunshine in this area, but there were new places to explore so after a couple of nights it was time to move on. There was one final surprise for us. Driving back over Takaka Hill we stopped at the same viewpoint we'd visited on the way through to Golden Bay to take in a vista of early morning cloud below us as far as the eye could see with mountains rising majestically above. 

A sleepy cicada settled on the wooden railing allowing time for a quick photo. These noisy creatures provide a constant barrage of noise in the bush, competing with birdsong but as they are normally high up in the trees its hard to see what's making all the noise!

After a few photos we continued our journey..which was headed towards the west coast...and a diet of pancakes!